Yesterdays ride was the most beautiful yet, full of sweeping vistas as the road to the Tanzanian border climbed up over the mountains. At one point I looked to my left to see the coastline of the lake laid out before me and was reminded of an Italian road I once drove that looks down for miles on the Mediterranean. Che Bella!
When I reached the summit I noticed the road sign saying sharp curves for the next twenty kilometres. They weren’t joking. It was hairpin after hairpin coming down, all accompanied by this incredible view….. and hundreds of monkeys that I had to ride around, thrilling and exhilarating.
On through a town for a quick stop to consult the map and up walks Peter. He’s a mechanic and he immediately asked if I had a problem. He would get his tools and help. I don't, but that's been the way of it, wonderful people who can’t do enough. Peter noticed the BC licence plates and pointed to his Canada Hockey Tuke. “Go Canada.” Fist bump!
At one point I needed to stop to tighten a cable and I was immediately surrounded by laughing, curious children and a few parents, again asking if they could help. Lots of laughs including me looking very focused on the engine until I turned around fast. “Boo!” The kids screamed and ran away, falling over themselves laughing.
Crossing the border was easy with very friendly guards welcoming me into Tanzania, accompanied by a Moto rider who bargained hard to try and exchange his 100 CC bike for my KLR. I asked for a cow as well but he would only go to a goat. We parted laughing and I rode on.
The road climbed. And climbed. And climbed. MY GPS showed me the elevation as nearly 7,000 feet. Yep, I’m in the home of Kilimanjaro. It was a beautiful ride through a mountain pass with "Oh Wow!" views everywhere.
I decided to stop in Mbeya as dusk was setting in. It's a busy city so I thought I’d find a place easily, but the first four hotels I asked were all full. I didn't realise it was a public holiday. After another unsuccessful try I found myself praying. “Jesus, you know a bit about this one, holidays, no room at the inn. I could do with a place to stay if you could help me out.”
The next hotel I asked had one and was perfect, cheap and cheerful with a very helpful staff who locked the bike away and a nice restaurant. I ordered one thing after another from the massive menu, but every five minutes the waiter would come back looking like the world had ended and tell me that that dish was unavailable, so in the end I pointed out that it would be easier if he told me what they did have. He brightened up immediately. “Chicken and fish Sir!” So chicken curry it was. Delicious.
Today I’ll make an early start and head for Morogoro, a national park about 650KM away. Tanzania is huge and though there are more direct routes, to stay on good roads I’ll need to do about 2,000KM to get to Nairobi in the next three days. All through beautiful country.
Life is rich.




